Skip to main content

Double Hand Warmer Muff Pattern



This hand-warmer, sometimes known as a hand muffler or simply just a muff, is designed to be worn on cold days when you also need easy access to your hands for things like fingerprint ID or to touch a screen that doesn't work with thick gloves. You can pair it with your gloves for extra warmth or a small reusable heat pack/ hot water bottle.

This pattern is double thickness, fully lined and constructed in the round. It's can be knit with any yarn that knits up to gauge, though I recommend a non-scratchy wool (as plastic will make you sweat and cotton is cold) and something approximately aran weight (as an airier knit will let in too much cold). 

The sample is knit with two strands held together: a 4 ply and a DK. I used a wool/alpaca blend from Yarnoncone held with James C Brett Shhh. Ironically I think these yarns are both labelled incorrectly. The Brett is much too thin to be DK and the alpaca, although advertised as 4ply, is definitely more like a DK. That goes to show you never really know what you're getting when you order online. 

This item was another gift for my mum. Her Raynaud's is particularly bad in the winter and I need to make sure she always has an extra layer. This has been a great addition for our walks to town. I previously made her these mittens which were also a hit. 

I knit on 5mm short circular needles. You can use long DPNs or 40cm circulars (or a longer cable if you know magic loop). 

This is a great pattern for scraps as it used less that 100g in total. Mix and matching the yarn for the rib and stocking section can use even small quantities or yarn. The second half of the knitting will be on the inside so any colours can be used there and they will never see the light of day.


Gauge: 16 sts to 4 inches


You will need:

70g of yarn total (split in any combination that meets gauge)

5mm 40cm circular needles

Tapestry needle

Stitch marker


Abbreviations:

st(s) - stitch(es)

R - round

k - knit

p - purl

kfb - knit front back

ssk - slip slip knit


*Pattern starts here*

Cast on 52 sts. Join in the round and place stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round.

Outside:

R1-R6: [k2, p2] to end

R7: k1, [kfb, k3] to end

Knit all stitches for 38 rows. You can extent this if you need. To tell if you need to add extra rows, test the length. (Remember you still have the length of the rib to go. This is not the final length.) Place the cast on edge at your wrist. Knit until no fingers stick out the working end.

R1: k1, [ssk, k3] to end

R2-R7: [k2, p2] to end

R8: purl all stitches (This marks where the muff will be folded in half.)

Inside:

R9-R14: [k2,p2] to end

Knit all stitches for 38 rows. If you knit more rows in the last section, match that number.

R1-R6: [k2, p2] to end.

Cast off leaving a long length of yarn.

You will have something that looks like this:

You will now seam the cast on and cast off edge together. Make sure wrong sides are facing. (That means that the purl sides of the stocking stitch sections are touching.) Use a whip stitch but make sure that there is still stretch in the material. You can use the rib as an indicator to line up the edges correctly.

One end should have the seam and the other should have a round of purl bumps. Make sure the first section you knit is the part on the outside as the extra increases are there to limit any wrinkling.

*Pattern ends here*


If you make this please tag me on Instagram @frednamakes and use the hashtag #DoubleHandWarmerMuff

🧡✌

Popular posts from this blog

Extra Thick Chrimbo Socks Pattern

These weren't originally designed to be Christmas sock. The star motif was inspired by an old Fair Isle jumper and the foot was just made of all the same colours. It's entirely made of yarn from stash: whatever colours that clashed enough to be noticeable from a distance. My actual goal with these socks was to create a design that was twice as thick as a regular DK sock. That's why every round has some type of fair isle colourwork: The floats pad out the sock. Mum in her new favourite socks If you've been following my patterns you will know that my mum has Raynaud's and needs the extra material to keep the warmth in her fingers and toes. You can check out the last pattern I made for her here . This pattern uses 5 colours. Try to make them all very different so the pattern will stand out and not blend together. A great way to test if they are going to blend together is to take a picture of all the balls of yarn in a black and white filter. Anything that has the same ...

Romney Mittens Pattern

Named after the yarn used, I spun this Kent Romney into a heavy Aran yarn last year to made a jumper, and this is how I made use of the scraps. The contrast colour is a natural Jacob (also handspun). This of course can be made with any yarn from commercial to handspun. Anything that fits the gauge will do. The sample is a gift for my mother and so this pattern is designed with a small hand in mind and may not suit a man. Though if you are confident knitter you are welcome to experiment changing the stitch counts to fit your intended hand. The pattern repeats are very simple and easy to extend over a wider stitch count. Adding length can also be done by simply repeating the chart as needed. Gauge: 16 stitches per 4 inches You will need: 6mm DPNs or circulars Tapestry needle Stitch marker Abbreviations: MC - main colour CC - contrast colour st(s) - stitch(es)  R - round k- knit m1r - make one right ssk - slip slip knit *Pattern starts here* Using the main colour, cast on 24 sts and ...

My First Pattern: Watermelon Brooch

A cute and quick crochet project to use up scraps and show your support for Watermelonia 🔻 Materials:  DK or Worsted weight yarn (less than 10g of each): MC Red CC1 White CC2 Green CC3 Black Stuffing or scraps (optional) 3.25mm hook Darning needle Scissors Safety pin   Start with MC. Make a sliding loop. R1: ch1 (this counts as first stitch), sc5, sl st into first stitch to complete round (6sts) R2: ch1, 2sc in every st, sl st into first st (12sts) R3: ch1, [2sc in next st, sc in next st], repeat [] to end, sl st into first st (18sts) R4: ch1, [2sc in next st, sc in next two sts], repeat [] to end, sl st into first st (24sts) R5: ch1, [2sc in next st, sc in next three sts], repeat [] to end, sl st into first st (30sts) Break yarn. Join CC1 R6: ch1, [2sc in next st, sc in four sts], repeat [] to end, sl st into first st (36sts) Break yarn. Join CC2 R7: ch1, [2sc in next st, sc in next five sts], repeat [] to end, sl st into first st (42sts) Break yarn with 50cm tail. Use needl...